Table for circular saw. DIY making a table for circular saw
Circular saw is a convenient and productive tool that is used for construction work. Using this equipment, you have the opportunity to use the qualities of maneuverability, as well as speed. However, when cutting large batches of lumber, it is quite difficult to work with this tool. Greatly facilitates the task of the table for circular saw, do it yourself it can be made without much difficulty.
Execution features
The basis of the design can be plywood or board. In this case, the tool will need to be installed at the bottom of the tabletop, while the toothed disk will need to be located in the hole in the desktop. The element being used for cutting will extend beyond the rectangular hole.
After saw is turned on, the disc will rotate, and when the material is fed, it will be sawn. The greatest thickness of the processed material will depend on the dimensions of the disk, as well as the power of the tool. When choosing equipment, you need to take into account the thickness of the countertop, to which it will be attached at the bottom saw.
Features of the choice of "circular"
If you don't have stock yet circular saw, then it can be purchased, taking into account some characteristics, among which we can distinguish the power of the equipment. If the tool is supposed to be used for household tasks, then a power of 800 watts will be enough to make a table for a circular saws with their own hands. This indicates that the volume of work will be medium.
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A circular saw is most often used for precise, even cuts in wood and wood-based materials, but can also be useful for cutting light metals and plastics. It should have a guide for a circular saw: tire and carriage, parallel stop. When buying a tool, you should pay attention to this attention. Power and number of revolutions per minute - labor productivity, quality of work, the ability to saw hard materials depend on these parameters.
Homemade desktop mini-sawmill
Homemade universal slider
For all of the listed guides, you can make one universal slider that fits any device. The slider consists of a metal profile and a carriage on bearings.
This design, consisting of self-made guides on bearings, is very convenient: easy to manufacture, easy to use, suitable for any guide device. The carriage has eight bearings: four thrust bearings and the same number of side bearings for fixing the carriage on the tire. As a tire, a profile guide in the form of a rail is used. Rail guides are particularly accurate, so they are used in the manufacture of furniture.
- Thrust ruler
- Materials and assembly
- Remote guide
- rail miter box
The guide rail for a circular saw is a device that provides a smooth cut. In total, there are two ways to help make a straight cut:
- Rigid fixation of the electric saw on the desktop.
- Stationary clamping of the workpiece, installation of a guide rail for manual circulars.
The first option involves fixing the tool on the workbench, while the workpiece moves along the guide. The quality of the cut will be high, but the dimensions of the workpiece are limited, due to the size of the machine. With the second processing method, the parameters of the workpiece can be arbitrary. The main thing is that the trimming tool is securely fixed.
Carpentry device manufacturers produce a wide range of guide rails for circular saws. Details are convenient to use, meet safety regulations. The design drawing includes a guide ruler. In some cases, it is possible to set the required degree of inclination of the cutter, it is possible to avoid backlash, jamming of the working element during its movement.
The factory carriage mounted on the circular does the job well, but is expensive. The article describes how to assemble a saw guide bar on your own.
Thrust ruler
Self-manufacturing of devices for circulars requires strict adherence to safety rules.
The cutting stop is often used when processing the material of a circular saw; it is effective only in the case of a jigsaw; problems can arise with cutting: the tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp.
The bracket protrudes from the bottom and top sides of the machine tabletop. The result is a limiter for the length of the cut, but the saw motor inevitably rests on the clamp, the cut is performed in two stages. The quality of the edge will be poor, there is a high probability of an unwanted step: to ensure a perfect cut, a continuous movement of the cutting blade from the beginning to the end of the lumber is necessary. In factory models, the fastener is taken out of the range for a circular saw, does not interfere with work.
Materials and assembly
A homemade guide rail can be assembled from an aluminum plaster rule. The device has a complex configuration, on the one hand it is equipped with a longitudinal groove for setting the handles in a comfortable position. Hidden clamps can be made from quick-release screwless clamps.
The paw must be dismantled from the clamp, fluoroplastic or polypropylene runners should be installed in its place. The material of the moving element must be strong and have a low coefficient of friction. The part is best shaped with a milling cutter or a metal hacksaw with fine teeth, but in the second case, you will have to additionally shape it with a file.
At the next stage, the sliders are installed in the groove of the rule, from which the guide for the manual circular saw will be created.
It is necessary to ensure that the sliding is free, but without play. It is not necessary to apply excessive force: during operation, the knot must be fixed.
Screw the sled to the top of the clamps. In this case, you need to make sure that the connection is strong so that spontaneous unwinding of the knot does not occur during operation. This will damage the workpiece or cause injury.
The guide rail for a circular saw should hold well and not play. The resulting design will allow you to unravel flat lumber, the length corresponding to the same parameter of the ruler minus the margin on the sides of fixing the clamps.
If during the test sawing a perfectly even cut is obtained, nothing interferes with the work, then the technology has been followed, the guide has been made correctly.
Plus design - the line will be inexpensive. Labor costs are also insignificant, they consist only in the formation of sliders.
Remote guide
The device with a guide rail has a disadvantage - the need to control the side contact of the saw with the ruler. If cutting a workpiece that is too wide, the arms may not be long enough to guide the material. The way out is to use a carriage with ball bearings. It won't be cheap, but it will pay off in the long run.
The guide carriage can be made from a corner and metal plates. The width is adjusted using wing locks integrated into the movable grooves. A profile of complex configuration is bought in a specialized department of a hardware store. There may be several options, but you need to provide a parallel stop for the circular.
If for some reason it is not possible to make an auxiliary element from a profile that will guide the cut along a clear line, you can buy an assembled device consisting of a carriage and a guide. The circular will be firmly connected by the sole to the carriage structure.
It is important to achieve strict parallelism of the circular motion along the profile. An improperly set stand will give a loose cut. An external guide rail for a circular saw is easy to make with your own hands. As a result, it will be possible to guide, process large-sized lumber, make high-quality cuts, trimming will be accurate, the saw will carry out light movements. Feeding can be carried out manually or with the help of a guide rod.
rail miter box
The operation of a circular saw with a guide bar assembled according to the first two methods will be comfortable, but rather slow. To speed up the process, it is better to use a rail miter box. For the manufacture of the guide device will require:
- the same type of metal corners (2 pcs.);
- a sheet of plywood or a thickness of 1.5 cm or more (as a base);
- nuts with bolts (4 sets).
The guide angles must be fixed in the same plane at a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the workpiece. The workpiece must move freely under the rails, the cutting wheel must not be too high. The bolts will act as studs. To reduce friction, you can glue strips of fluoroplast, but it is better to equip the fixture with wheels.
A guiding tool made according to this scheme is complex, but its efficiency is higher.
The video shows the assembly process, the functioning of a circular with a guide rail.
With my own hands. How to make yourself
How to make something yourself, with your own hands. home master site
How to make homemade stationary circulars with your own hands
We are making a roundtable
In one of the posts, we already mentioned how choose and buy a circular saw (circular). Now let's talk about how to turn it into a stationary tool necessary for every master. homemade. All described drawings and diagrams for the manufacture of circular saws you will find the View Album link.
It is difficult to build a modern house without a good power tool. At the same time, the tool it is only a useless toy unless the skillful hands of a craftsman are attached to it.
Electric circular saw. an extremely useful tool for the needs of a country house design. Cut lumber of different sections at any angle, cut sheets of plywood or fiberboard. jobs that are traditionally done with a rotating saw blade. But that's not all that can be "circular". a versatile tool in my opinion.
For me, for example, A circular saw. an indispensable assistant in the performance of almost all works that require the choice of wood. Keys for splicing boards in shields, grooves for joints in the middle or "pan", folds for making all kinds of frames, window and door frames. this and much more is easy to cut with such a wonderful tool as an electric circular saw. It can work both in manual mode and in stationary mode. However, in any case, it is advisable to use other, lighter working equipment.
So. for example, the simplest device that allows you to easily and quickly see the edge of an unedged or simply uneven board is a stop bar. For the latter, I use either a well carved wooden rake or a piece of aluminum angle. I attach the plank to the board with clamps (or nails driven into the pre-drilled holes), taking into account the distance to the edge of the base plate (fig. 1). Working with the thrust bar is extremely simple. the right edge of the base plate of the tool is pressed against this device, and I make a cut that turns out to be exceptionally smooth.
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It is equally useful to use a stop bar and glue the door panels with dowels (fig. 2). The saw blade in this case is installed at the required angle to the plane of the base plate "circulars" and a hard shield is nailed to the shield shields. First, cut the boundary cuts to the specified depth, and then, to make it easier to select the groove, make a couple more cuts between them (Fig. 3). The keys are cut from the board without changing the angle of the saw blade, but increasing its output.
Similarly, you can choose grooves to connect the elements of the structure "in the pan" or in the middle (see Figure 3).
In order to make the surface of the table smooth, the hole in the base plate from the front side are rolled out, and the whole assembly is tightened with vponoi cap screws. The assembled table is attached to the frame with screws or screws and nuts, and the insert with the groove under the saw blade is inserted into the gap between the plates (see Fig. 5). The machine is almost ready to go. Rigid sawing in stationary mode, fix the clamps to the table.
Production of carriage for sawing table | Do-it-yourself circular device
I'll show you how do useful accessory for the saw table. carriage for cross cutting. Prizp
Carriage for circular | Works of the Masters
Using such saw machine, you can not only dissolve the board on the bars. Simple operation. this is, for example, the preparation of frames. To do this, it is enough to make two cuts in the workpiece at right angles to each other, and the fold is ready. By the way, the required amount of impurities is formed. Fold the pleats into the door frame rods in the same way. The only difference here is that a deep cut (for the thickness of the door leaf) is made with the saw blade tilted at a small (3 5 0) angle to ensure a tight door seal.
Assemble carpentry board on plug-in racks. and this work is on the shoulder of our machine. For this purpose, grooves of the required depth are cut at the ends of the mating boards. As "inserts" strips of plywood, the width of which is somewhat less than the total depth of the grooves of the rims.
A useful adaptation to the "saw machine" can be a carriage, from With this work, such as cutting workpieces and sawing them "in the face" (at a 45 ° angle), is greatly simplified. The device is very simple. Guides are attached to the plywood sheet with glue and screws, the distance between which corresponds to the width of the table and the machine (Fig. 6). Similarly, the top edges are fixed at the top.
The carriage is placed on the table, and when the machine is running, it is fed along the guides to the disk, making a cut through the entire device. Due to the fact that the edges significantly exceed the output of the saw blade, the carriage retains sufficient rigidity.
The blanks are pierced by pressing them against the stop border and moving the carriage in the longitudinal direction along the table.
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To prepare the joint "permanently", use a removable rod placed at a 45° angle to the edge. The workpiece is pressed against it as the carriage moves along the table.
- Carefully study the safety rules for working with the tool specified in the instruction manual.
- Before operating the saw in manual mode, make sure that the right edge of the support tool plate is parallel to the plane of the saw.
- By using saw blade with carbide overlays on the teeth, they should be periodically cleaned from sticking resin and dust. You either mechanically or using solvents.
- When cutting lumber, always use pads, positioning them so that the saw blade does not snag (fig. 7). Thanks to this, you will get rid of an expensive tool from trouble.
- Protect the electrical cord from possible contact with the saw's work area by using a variety of brackets, hooks and grips.
- When working with the saw in stationary mode, use the pusher (fig. 8), which allows you to press and feed the workpiece onto the saw blade. This is especially necessary for processing short and thin workpieces.
- Reduce the friction of the workpiece on the plane of the base plate, and the guide rod can be wiped on the surface with paraffin or wax.
DIY Mini Circular
I have been working on the tree for a long time. Often you should see details for small details. On a bulky bench saw, this is inconvenient, so I made a smaller version of this design. It turned out to be a practical machine that does not take up much space in the workshop.
On the frame (photo 1, point 1) from a woodworking machine (if it is not available, you can weld an analogue of the correct dimensions from the channel), fixed by an asynchronous flange motor (2), which is connected to a 220 V network.
A cartridge from a lathe (3) is attached to its shaft (you can buy it at a scrap metal collection point).
As a saw, I used a small diameter disc cutter (photo 2). To clamp it in the cartridge, I made a metal tube shank d 15 mm and 180 mm long. To do this, the spindle was pressed into the tube from the old Bulgarian. Stuck on the last torch and secured it with a clamp nut.
The cartridge must be fixed strictly horizontally relative to the frame, since even with a slight deviation during rotation, a beating will occur, and this can lead to! injury.
The more powerful the motor, the thicker the workpieces can be processed by the machine, this must be taken into account when choosing the motor.
When working with a manual circular saw, the question of the straightness of the cut is acute. There are two concepts for ensuring a straight line:
Fastening on the sawing machine (workbench) of the actual circular.
In this design, the hand tool is permanently attached to the table, and the workpiece moves along the guide. The cutting quality is at its best, but there are serious limitations on the size of the material being processed.
The workpiece is fixed permanently, and a guide ruler is installed for a hand-held circular saw.
In this design, the size of the workpiece to be cut can be any, the main thing is to ensure that the attachment for the circular saw is firmly attached. Manufacturers of hand tools have taken care of users and offer various ready-made devices for sale.
Industrially manufactured guides are comfortable and safe. As a rule, they are equipped with an accurate marking ruler, some allow you to set the cutting angle. The material is selected in such a way as to exclude wedging and play during the movement of the tool.
The pair, consisting of a groove and a runner, is protected from the ingress of cutting products and does not need lubrication.
However, all these kits are expensive, and many home craftsmen make a rail for.
Consider options that were independently invented and created by homegrown "Kulibins".
IMPORTANT! A hand-held circular saw is a source of increased injury, therefore, in the manufacture of home-made devices based on it, safety precautions should be followed.
The easiest option is a cutting stop
The device is actively used when cutting with a jigsaw.
It works quite efficiently, but it is limited for hand-held circular saws. The tire is pressed against the workpiece with a clamp. The bracket protrudes above the work surface both from below and from above.
As a result, we get restrictions on the length of the cut. The circular engine rests against the clamp, and you have to cut in two steps. In this case, the quality of the edge deteriorates, a step may form.
Any master will tell you that a high-quality cut is obtained when the saw moves continuously from the beginning to the end of the workpiece.
In industrial designs, fasteners are placed outside the ruler, and do not interfere with the free passage of the tool.
A homemade guide is made from a finished tool of a different profile, which has a low cost. We buy a long aluminum rule (emphasis on and) for plaster or screed.
Its cost is 3-4 hundred rubles. The tool is a profile of a complex shape with a smooth groove on the reverse side for adjusting the position of the handles. Clamping fastening, on hexagonal nuts. Not suitable for our purposes.