Regulations on competitions in technology rope access
1. Goals and objectives:
- Prevention of injuries in industrial mountaineering.
- Determination of the best participant, taking into account the specifics of the profession.
Learning new ways of working. *healthy image removed life, because the PA is not a fig not cool. Delete this phrase in brackets *
Gaining rich experience in rope work.
2. Time and place of the event:
Vladivostok Marine College Vladivostok
February 23, 2013 09:00 – 19:00.
February 24, 2013 10:00 – 18:00
3. Competition management:
The general management of the organization and conduct of the competition is carried out by the Training Center Promalp Far East, Vladivostok. The direct conduct of the competition is entrusted to the main panel of judges, approved by the organizing organization. For questions about organizing and holding competitions, please contact email: *****@***ru tel. +7* is it worth leaving this data, or is it better to put additional soap and bodies of the chief judge or organizer, if it will be more than one person. Erase this inscription in brackets *
4. Competitors:
Persons who are 18 years old at the time of the competition, who do not have medical contraindications, are allowed to participate in the competition, upon presentation of a valid certificate (or copy) of an industrial climber. Those who submitted an application within the allotted time and provided an action plan within the allotted time (for the “Rescue Work” distance) * we need to change this name to something like “Pair Technique”, “Group Work”, “Team Work”, “Team Work” or something like that, otherwise we limit ourselves to rescue work. Delete what's in parentheses*
5. Terms and conditions:
Some points of the conditions may change during the preparation of the course
5.1. Competitions are held in accordance with the requirements of the POT RM, the current GOSTs, the Interim Safety Rules in Industrial Mountaineering, the IRATA Code of practice, as well as these Regulations. Each participant must have 2 belay points independent of each other at any time that meet the technical requirements.
5.2. All Participants will pass stages in basic kits equipment. If the participant wants to cover the distance in his kit, the kit must meet all the requirements and pass the technical commission 30 minutes before the start. During the stages it will be possible to use additional equipment, but for separate penalty points.
5.3. Competitions are held in two types of individual championship (access technique) and team championship (rescue work) * I think it should be removed. Don't forget to delete what I wrote*
5.4. Competitions are held according to the penalty system.
5.5. The distance "Personal technique" consists of a theoretical and practical test.
The result of the theoretical testing will be summed up with time on the practical part, and will affect the place taken at the "Personal technique" distance. If the participant is not present at the testing, he receives the maximum penalty (10 minutes).
5.6. The start of the participants at the distance "Personal technique" is made by a forced draw. At the “Rescue Work” distance, the participants choose their starting number in the order of places occupied at the “Personal vehicle” distance, if the sum of places is equal, preference is given to the highest place. * I think it’s worth removing this item and putting the fact that they will start according to the draw*
5.7. Competitions will be held in a warm room.
6. Security
The organizers of the competition are responsible for the safety of distances, judicial safety equipment and issued personal equipment. Participants are responsible for the safety of personal equipment.
Representatives of the sending organizations and team members are personally responsible for the implementation of safety regulations, observance of discipline and environmental standards at the competition venue.
7. Approximate program of the competition
February 23:
9:00-11:00 - Credentials Commission.
11:00-11:15 - Opening. All those who do not appear are removed from the competition.
11:15-11:30 - Testing.
11:30-12:00 - Demonstration of the route.
12:20-12:40 - Reception of the list of additional equipment.
13:00-15:00 - Distance "Personal technique".
15:00-15:30 - Break.
15:30-18:00 - Distance "Personal technique".
18:30 - Drawing of lots and display of the "Rescue Work" distance.
24 February:
10:00-10:30 - Acceptance of the plan for passing the "Rescue Work" distance and the list of additional equipment.
10:30-14:30 - Distance "Rescue work" (team of 2 people).
17:30-18:00 - Awarding the winners, closing of the competition.
8. Summing up:
For each distance, the results are summed up separately:
8.1. The test result is summed up with the time of the "Personal technique" distance. The winner is determined by the smallest amount of time.
8.2. "Rescue work": team -2 people, the winner is determined by the smallest amount of time.
In case of equality of results, the participant or team has the advantage:
With fewer penalty points
girls
Starting earlier
9. Awarding of winners:
Prizes and diplomas are awarded to participants who took 1st, 2nd, 3rd places at the distance "Personal technique".
Prizes and diplomas are awarded to the teams that took 1st, 2nd, 3rd places at the Spasraboty distance.
10. Acceptance of applications:
To participate in the competition, you must download and fill out a special form from the official website of the training center "Promalp DV" http://www. ***** and send it to e-mail *****@***ru, until February 10 inclusive. The number of applications for "Personal Distance" -60 participants (subject to change), for "Rescue Work" -30 teams. The application must indicate: Full name, year of birth, place of residence, sports category (mountaineering / rock climbing / speleology, if any), certificate number (where and when received, where and when extended), distance, which he intends to perform (Personal equipment, Rescue work). If accommodation is required, this must be reported by February 10th.
11. Financing:
The costs associated with the organization and holding of competitions, awarding the winners, are borne by the organizer of the competition - the training center "Promalp DV"
The costs associated with the participation of teams in competitions are borne by the sending organizations or the participants themselves.
at the distance "Personal equipment" -100 rubles per person,
at the distance "Rescue work" - 300 rubles per team.
To accommodate non-resident participants, hotel rooms can be booked. In the preliminary application, it is necessary to indicate the need to provide a place in the hotel until February 10.
Price per place per day | ||
2-seater | 5 5 0 rub. | |
3-seater | 50 0 rub. | |
4-seater | 4 7 0 rub. |
12. Additional information:*This paragraph should be inserted somewhere above*
If the participant fails to submit the list of additional equipment used at the distance "Personal equipment" (in writing) in time, it is automatically considered to start in the basic set.
At the distance "Personal Equipment", before the announcement of the start, it is forbidden to carry out any (except for unraveling) manipulations with the ropes and part of the range involved in the distance. It is allowed to carry out any manipulations with the basic set and the additional equipment taken. *Maybe I should write something else here, I don't know. Erase what is written here in brackets *
If the team does not submit a plan for passing the "Rescue Work" distance in time (in writing), then the team is removed from the race. If the team does not submit a list of additional equipment used at the Rescue Work distance (in writing) in time, then automatic is considered to start in the basic set.
At the “Rescue Work” distance, before the announcement of the start, it is forbidden to carry out any (except for unraveling) manipulations with the ropes and part of the range involved in the distance. It is allowed to carry out any manipulations with the basic set and the additional equipment taken.
** Something else can be added here, this is later, I can’t imagine what else will be there **
Experienced hikers and climbers know that often only the presence of a rope and special equipment can make the route accessible and relatively safe to pass. Most of the trekking routes around the world allow you to navigate them without the use of a rope. Sometimes, in dangerous places on the routes, special cables, brackets or railings are fixed.
In such cases, a helmet, protective gloves, sometimes a safety system and self-insurance mustache are enough for safe movement. This equipment has already been covered in previous articles.
But on difficult hikes or climbs, rugged terrain may require more equipment. First of all, it is a rope and means of descending and ascending along it, as well as everything necessary for insurance. In this article, I want to talk only about the most basic points that will make it easier for a beginner to take their first steps in the world of extreme tourism, especially if he takes them without detailed training by an instructor. After all, it often happens that tourists are faced with the use of such technical means on commercial climbs, where one guide / instructor for several people does not have the opportunity to conduct high-quality training.
Rope
Depending on the possibility of use, there are two types - main and auxiliary . main rope is used for:
- insurance,
- hanging railings,
- with its help, participants move in places with difficult terrain.
Auxiliary rope (cord, paracord) is used for:
- bivouac organization,
- on the construction of crossings,
- insurance for personal belongings and equipment,
- insurance of participants by making the so-called prusik (Prusik knot),
- rescue work and in other situations.
For both uses, it is best to use only certified products that meet or exceed what is required in each situation. This rule is must be strictly observed for all applications related to the safety of participants.
The main rope is of two types - dynamic(“dynamics”) and static("statics").
dynamic rope made in such a way as to significantly stretch under significant load. Thus, a smooth damping of the jerk is achieved. The invention of dynamic rope has greatly improved safety in the world of extreme sports. The person using it suffers much less damage from a violent fall than when using a static rope.
At the same time, it should be understood that the stretch rope has its drawbacks for certain types of use, primarily as vertical or horizontal railings, tension crossings, lifting heavy loads. The "rubber" effect makes the use of the rope in such cases inconvenient. In addition, dynamic rope is not a cheap pleasure.
In such cases, irreplaceable static rope. On commercial routes to the highest mountains in the world, such as Everest, kilometers of rope railings are hung every year. As a rule, from static ropes. They are more convenient, cheaper, have a very high wear resistance. Rope railings are also used when hiking Elbrus, its highest, western peak.
All types of ropes now have a strong wear-resistant upper sheath, and inside they consist of a large number of strong fibers. The braid is usually done in bright colors. If you need multiple ropes, use different colors to avoid confusion. The condition of the rope must be carefully monitored, in the mountains it can be damaged as a result of exposure to aggressive environmental factors and the human factor. The instructor must assess the nature of the damage to the rope. It is better for a beginner to immediately abandon the idea of \u200b\u200busing a damaged rope.
To date, the average diameter of the main rope is about a centimeter. This thickness provides a balance of strength, wear resistance on the one hand, and weight, compactness and ease of use on the other. In the last decade, there has been some trend towards a decrease in the diameter of dynamic ropes. However, a single main rope is rarely thinner than 9mm.
Rope belay
In the moments related to self-insurance were considered. On difficult terrain, self-insurance alone is often not enough. Then the group is divided into bundles, in which the participants insure each other with a rope, being tied by it.
Insurance can be simultaneous and alternate.
Simultaneous insurance used on relatively simple, but potentially dangerous terrain. The most common example is moving in a bundle on a glacier. Participants move all at the same time, while they are connected by a rope and are at a safe distance from each other - on average, 15-18m. In the event of a sudden fall into a crack by one of the ropes, he is held up by the weight of the other people in the rope and the resistance of the rope cutting into the edge of the crack. Also, simultaneous belay is widely used on narrow dangerous ridges, where it is possible to lay the rope separating the participants over the ledges of the relief. Sometimes, for simultaneous insurance, artificial points for securing the rope are used, which requires more serious skills.
Variable insurance used where the simultaneous movement of participants becomes dangerous. In this case, one of the participants moves along the terrain, if possible, passing the rope through the belay points (if any), and the other carefully insures him. As a rule, a safety device is used in this case. The belayer carefully observes the partner in the rope moving along the terrain, gives out the amount of rope necessary for free movement or chooses slack.
The insurer at any time must be ready to take all measures to detain the broken first number.
This so-called " bottom insurance", since all points of reliable fastening of the rope are below the climber. Traveling with bottom insurance the most risky and requires good preparation.
After the first number advances along the terrain for the entire length of the rope or to a convenient / agreed place, he stops and organizes a base station at reliable belay points (large stones, teeth, stationary hooks or staples, mobile belay points) and prepares to receive the second number to yourself, providing it top insurance.
Top insurance more reliable and less traumatic due to the fact that in the event of a breakdown (with the correct organization of the process), there is no significant fall of the broken participant. In this case, the belayer can be located relative to the climber both at the top (during climbs) and at the bottom (during training). In this case, the rope must pass through a special ring or carabiner at the top of the route.
Peril insurance. Railing.
It is necessary to mention this type of insurance, which is very popular in commercial and sports climbing, and is considered a group insurance.
A railing, as a rule, means a rope fixed on both sides (top and bottom), which often also has additional points of attachment along its length (this is especially true for horizontal or diagonal railings). Such points of additional fastening of the rope are obligatory at the bends of the railing path.
They usually move along the railing by fastening a self-insurance mustache into them with a carabiner (link) if the relief is simple. If the terrain is difficult for the climber, then special clamps are used to prevent slipping down. The simplest and most affordable clamp is prusik knot(cm. 
Belay devices
For reliable alternate insurance, the use of special devices is necessary. Currently, a great many of them have been invented. Here we will consider the main types, each of which has its own advantages and disadvantages.
You need to understand that only the most affordable and popular devices for use on hikes are described here.
Knot UIAA (UIAA). This abbreviation stands for "International Mountaineering Federation". It is the standards of this organization that are taken as the basis for the certification of almost all devices for extreme activities. The UIAA knot is perhaps the easiest way to secure relatively safe belay. It can also be used for rappelling. All that is needed for this is a reliable carabiner, preferably steel, with a round section (a carabiner made of light alloy will begin to rub rather quickly). This knot works "in two directions", has two positions, in one of which the rope is easily issued through the carabiner, and in the other it has great resistance to passing through it.
Main advantage this method of insurance - simplicity.
disadvantages more. The main one is that the knot twists the rope very strongly, which, after one passage through the carabiner with the knot, becomes unsuitable for further use without alignment. Therefore, this method should be known rather "just in case".
« Eight". This type of descender is very easy and reliable to use. Still would! There is simply nothing to break here. In addition to the eight, a carbine is also needed.
Main dignity- ease, simplicity, cheapness. The ability for most designs to work with double rope, with thick, stiff or very dirty rope that may "refuse to cooperate" with more delicate devices.
From shortcomings- “twirls” the rope, although not as much as the UIA knot. Requires increased accuracy in use, as it does not have a self-locking effect. A paradox occurs - a device that requires clear skills and is potentially one of the most dangerous, most often ends up in the hands of beginners due to its low cost ...
« Cup". A technically more advanced group of devices. Just as light and almost as simple in design as the figure eights, but with a partial self-locking effect. There are many double rope designs. Ideal devices? If only… Doesn’t work well with hard ropes and larger diameter ropes…
A lot of home-made or original devices of small-scale manufacturers work according to a principle similar to a glass - all kinds of "insects", "fungi", "swallows" and other works of unstoppable engineering.
The devices listed above are convenient in that they can be used with equal success both for belay and for rappelling. They are lightweight, compact, cheap and best suited for beginners. Still, it's hard for me to recommend the 8 as the first belay device for a beginner.
There are a number of more bulky and specialized devices, mainly used in industrial mountaineering and speleology. They are bulky, heavy, and expensive. Therefore, they are more suitable for professional use and will not be considered in this article.
I can’t ignore another cult belay device, which, however, can be used to a limited extent for descent - gris-gris (GriGri) from the famous French equipment manufacturer Petzl. Over time, the principle of operation of the device was varying degrees success borrowed by other manufacturers.
First of all, the device is popular with climbers and climbers. Its feature is semi-automatic operation. The action of the device is somewhat similar to the action of inertial seat belts in a car - if you pull smoothly, the rope (belt) protrudes freely, but it is worth pulling sharply and the mechanism is blocked. True, there are some nuances in using the device. However, it significantly increases the security of insurance. Unfortunately, the limited application, high price (about $90) and the need for certain skills do not make this device the best choice for a beginner.
It is also worth mentioning prusik knot . This ingenious invention is more than eighty years old and, despite significant advances in technology during this time, it is still widely used in mountaineering, hiking and other extreme activities. This knot is a kind of noose - a type of grasping knot that has a pronounced self-blocking effect (when used correctly). Allows the climber to linger in case of an unexpected fall. At the same time, it is very simple, weighs almost nothing and takes up exactly the same space as a two-meter cord, from which it is most often made.
I believe the reader understands that any information in any most beautiful article is just food for thought. It cannot be the only reason for the use of special equipment in extreme travel or other circumstances. I strongly recommend practical classes in the types of extreme activity that interest you with a knowledgeable instructor. It also makes sense to conduct potentially dangerous hikes under the guidance of an experienced guide or people who have the necessary skills behind them for more complex actions than those required in this activity.
I wish you exciting, rich, but safe adventures! The road will be mastered by the walking one.
Consider the main stages and sequence of actions when performing work using the cable access method.
Work at height starts from planning phase. The duration and complexity of planning depends on the complexity and typicality of the task. In addition to solving technological, technical and organizational issues directly related to the performance of work, risk analysis is carried out at this stage. It is necessary to identify all existing harmful and dangerous factors, possible threats to employees, unauthorized persons and material assets. Each identified hazard must be associated with measures to eliminate or reduce the risk. At the planning stage, a list and methods of using PPE against falls from a height and other necessary protective equipment are determined. Plans for evacuation and rescue from a height are also being developed.
After planning is complete the necessary documentation is drawn up, briefings are carried out.
Then follows stage of preparatory work.
It is necessary to prevent people from entering the danger zone of possible falling objects. For this, fences are installed. Often it is required to allocate a worker to protect the danger zone. It may be necessary to remove vehicles, equipment located in the danger zone, install protective structures over objects that cannot be removed.
If there are any unstable fragile structures or objects that can fall above the place of work, they must be removed or fixed. Used tools and materials should also not be stored in the immediate vicinity of the height difference.
All other work carried out above and below workers using rope access systems must be stopped. In the area of work performed by the rope access method, the operation of lifting and other mobile mechanisms should be stopped.
Anchor lines are fixed in most cases above the place of work. Before installing anchor devices, it is necessary to inspect the selected supports and make sure that they are intact. The rope access system and the fall arrest system must have separate anchor devices, each of which must withstand at least 22 kN. For added safety, each anchor line can be connected to both anchor devices - in this case, the destruction of one of the anchor devices will not separate the line from the support. If the selected supports are themselves at height, fall protection PPE must also be used to access them.
As flexible anchor lines in cable access systems, special synthetic ropes, having certain strength and dynamic properties, corresponding to the standard GOST EN 1891. The ropes are gently lowered to the place of work. At the ends of the ropes, locking knots are required to prevent the disconnection of the belay and descenders. Stop knots are required even if the ends of the ropes touch the ground. If the length of the rope is greater than the height difference, it is preferable to leave the excess rope coiled at the top near the place where the anchor lines are fixed - this can prevent it from becoming dirty, damaged or caught in any moving mechanisms.
Ropes must be protected from contact with sharp edges. For this, protectors of various designs, deflectors can be used.
It is necessary to exclude the possibility of unauthorized persons getting to the places of fixing the anchor lines. If this is not possible, then an observer should be placed.
Before using the anchor lines, the worker must make sure that they are fixed and not used by another worker. Also, the employee must inspect his PPE against falling from a height and conduct a functional check of the devices: belay, descender, clamps, etc.
Only after completing all the preparatory operations and implementing security measures, you can proceed to use of rope access systems.
The work site is usually reached by descending anchor lines. A worker may need to climb over the edge of a roof or platform to begin a descent. Climbing should be smooth and accurate, avoiding a jerk. It is necessary to ensure that the trigger device, carabiners and other devices are not damaged around the corner, are not loaded “to break”. Protectors should be used to protect anchor lines and slings at the bend.
The tools and materials used must be "secured" - attached to the worker's harness or anchor line. A light tool is usually attached to the harness at designated attachment points. Tools, inventory, fixtures and materials weighing more than 10 kg must be hung on a separate rope with an independent anchor device.
If the execution of work takes at least some lengthy time, it is required to use working seat. This is necessary in order to prevent circulatory disorders and the associated negative consequences for the body - the development of the suspension syndrome.
Having reached the place of work, the worker stops the descent and blocks the trigger device (if provided by the manufacturer). In order to reduce the depth of a possible fall in the event of a break in the anchor line, the fall arrest device can be moved up a certain distance, which allows the length of the fall arrest line. This is especially important when the worker is close to the ground or near an obstacle. Some belay devices have a locking function that prevents the device from sliding down (for example, Petzl ASAP).
Having completed the task, the worker, as a rule, goes down along the anchor lines used. If it is necessary to leave the place of work in the way that the worker got there, then he rises up using the clamps.
Work at height must be stopped if the meteorological conditions worsen or any other danger arises. If an employee is unable to independently evacuate from a height due to feeling unwell or injury, a predetermined plan of rescue is carried out.
Original taken from mr_aug in
Original taken from survivalpanda in Vertical training for beginners. Likbez. Theory and practice of entry level
In this article I will try, to the best of my understanding, to explain the basics of mountain training in the most simple way for absolute beginners in the subject.
I will tell you about the terms and the simplest techniques of descent and ascent that everyone can master.
Just a few months ago, in order to collect this information, I had to climb the Internet for a rather long time, so I decided to systematize and present it as simply as possible, I think it will be useful.
The article turned out to be big, but you can’t throw out the words from the song. She wrote for a long time. Right in parallel with writing, I experienced or mastered something new and included it in the article.
Also, I do not rule out some mistakes that I could well have made.
Warning: it is better to do such things under the supervision of professionals. Otherwise, you can very easily get killed or injured.
So. It all started with the great bang. All mountain training, according to my classification, is divided into two types of organization of movement on a rope. This is an upward movement i.e. ascent and downward movement i.e. descent.
Now we will slowly begin to disassemble each item of equipment and the term that may meet on the thorny path of a beginner who wants to get a little familiar with this topic.
The first thing we need is rope.
Without a rope, we won’t climb anywhere and then we won’t go down from there.
Two types of ropes are used in mountaineering: static(static - slang) and dynamic(dynamics - slang). They are characterized by dynamic qualities, namely the ability to elongate under load.
The main property of dynamic ropes is the ability to absorb the jerk that occurs when a climber falls (we will talk about the fall factor below). Therefore, dynamics is very often used for belaying climbing. For lower insurance, it is generally required.
For a simple descent and ascent on a rope, a beginner will only need to purchase a static rope. A bay of 50 meters is enough for everything and still remains. The budget option would be to purchase domestic rope (Kolomna, Dzerzhinsk, etc.).
Standard diameters used in mountaineering are 9-11 mm (in promalp - 10-12). The more, the stronger and heavier the rope. The more it slows down in the descender.
I advise you to stop at the golden mean - 10 mm.
And if we touched the ropes, then we can not ignore repsnur(repic, repchik - slang). This is an auxiliary static rope with a diameter of 3-8mm. It has a bunch of applications, ranging from the organization of self-insurance and ending with the manufacture of shoelaces.
In general, the paracord was not lying around.
I use a 5mm cord, a skein of which is almost always in my backpack.
With the ropes sort of figured out.
From the ropes we smoothly pass to the knots.
There are a lot of different knots and you can learn them endlessly. I will focus only on some of the most in my opinion demanded.
First it eight, we can say - this is the main node that can be used in almost any case. Very reliable knot, practically does not weaken the rope.
The figure eight is used for bindings, both to an individual safety system (ISS) and to a support. For connecting and lengthening ropes, in general, for almost everything.
You need to learn how to knit a figure eight loop.
Bowline- a very common knot for tying and creating loops. Less reliable than the figure eight, but knits faster. A control node is required. Not absolutely reliable. Tie a better eight.
You need to know at least one grasping knot. Then we will insure ourselves.
Well, knot UIAA(UIAA), needed for emergency descents and descents with a minimum of equipment.
Note! The free end of the rope should come out from the opposite side of the carabiner sleeve.
Have you bought a rope, mastered the knots, now you can climb and descend?
In principle, yes, you can, like in the good old days, rappel without any equipment.
To rappel - to descend with a rappel. Many people think that this is any descent, but it is not. Dylfer is a descending technique named after the inventor.
So, it is possible to go down in this way, but it is not safe and inconvenient.
For convenience and safety, it has long been invented Individual Harness Systems(ISS, system, gazebo, suspended).
They serve to distribute the load on the body when hanging and falling and do not let you fall.
Systems are full and waist.
I use a belt system. If desired, it can be turned into a full one by buying special straps.
For beginners, I would recommend a regular ISS without shoulders.
If you need a budget option, then the domestic company Vento. In any case, you should not take systems consisting only of slings. In the people they are affectionately called "egg cutters". If there is enough money, then it is better not to be stingy and take something from the famous brands Petzl, Black Diamod, etc.
The following photo shows the main elements of the safety system:
Leg loops
Waist girth
Safety ring (green)
Loops for hanging equipment - they are not cargo, in no case should you insure and hang on them.
Dealt with insurance systems.
Now we need combine rope with ISS. You can do this in two ways. Knot and through a carabiner.
The knot is still the same figure eight, but I will talk about carbines a little lower.
The carabiner is fastened into the central safety loop. This is a strong recommendation of all manufacturers.
Very often they are taught to fasten into the belt loop and the leg loop at the same time - this is a mistake. increases the chance that the carabiner will warp and it will be loaded laterally. At the same time, only a knot can be attached to both loops.
Do not believe me, then read the instructions for your ISS.
Now let's move on to carbines.
So what are carbines.
Firstly, they are sleeved and non-sleeved.
Their difference is that the clutched ones are equipped with a special clutch that prevents the carbine from opening spontaneously.
Couplings There are threaded, bayonet and automatic.
With automatic it is convenient to manipulate with one hand, but their reliability leaves much to be desired. I recommend using carabiners with threaded sockets. And most importantly, always make sure that the carbine is muffled.
Also, carbines differ in shape and are: oval, trapezoidal, triangular, pear-shaped, etc.
Oval carabiners are the most versatile and inexpensive.
Trapezoidal with a similar weight have greater strength than oval.
Triangular and pear-shaped carabiners have increased rope clearance. They are more convenient to fasten and use the UIAA knot.
Carabiners are made from different materials. These are steel, aluminum alloys and titanium.
Steel carabiners are heavy and very strong, aluminum carabiners are much lighter. Titanium ones are quite rare and I did not communicate with them.
Now for strength.
Each carbine is equipped with this marking. It means that the carbine from the photo in the muffled state will withstand a load of 22 kN (2.2 tons) in the longitudinal direction. 8 kN if the latch is open and 8 kN in the transverse direction.
You can see how important it is to lock the carabiners and make sure they are positioned properly.
Note! The clutch of the carabiner should always "look" at you. This way you will see if the carabiner has accidentally disengaged.
If it is possible that the load will be applied from several sides, so-called rapids are used. These are steel carabiners that do not have a folding latch, but only a threaded coupling.
I would advise a beginner to buy 3-4 carbines of various shapes with threaded couplings. Production material - optional.
Let's move on to Descenders(SU, trigger).
The main principle of operation of all control systems is the creation of rope friction in the mechanism. As a result, you can control the descent with very little effort.
SU happen manual and automatic.
In manual landing stages, the speed of descent and braking depend only on the way the rope is threaded and on the force with which a person pulls the rope below the landing stage.
Automatic descenders have a special mechanism. We pull the handle - we go down. We release the handle - we hang. In this case, the free end of the rope must still be controlled.
In this article, I will only talk about hand-held devices. for a beginner who does not plan to engage in industrial alp, automatic devices are completely redundant.
And I will tell you about two types of triggers - this is a figure-eight and a Shikht puck.
SU eight- This is one of the most classic devices. Looks like this.
The horn is needed to fix the rope, there are eights and without horns.
The disadvantage is that the figure eight twists the rope. This means that after several descents, the rope will be full of "lambs" that will then have to be untangled.
The advantages include several options for refueling the rope.
There are two of them. Through the carabiner (the speed of descent is higher) and through the neck of the figure eight.
Well, at any time, the horned figure eight can be blocked by winding the rope around the horn.
Another, more modern version of the figure eight is the Petzl piranha. It has even more ways to fasten and adjust the speed of descent. More about this trigger device will be in a separate review.
By the way, take a look at the non-Petselevsky carbine. When it's decoupled, the red anodizing strip is visible - a great idea in my opinion.
The second type of manual SU is washer charge. They are: glass, basket, reverse, etc.
Works great with single and double rope. They don't spin it. In general, I recommend starting with just such a descent.
Threading the rope is carried out as follows. A loop is created that is threaded into a slot on the device. The free end of the rope is directed towards the SU jaws.
A carabiner is fastened inside the loop.
Note! The cable is not a loaded part and serves only for transportation.
Let's say the stars align. You have bought a coil of rope, ISS, carabiners and a belay device.
Good, still needed helmet. But I leave it on your conscience.
Although even a banal construction helmet will not hurt.
I use ballistic helmets, which doesn't always elicit a healthy response.
Will not be redundant knee pads. Otherwise, bruising on the knees cannot be avoided.
Just as important are good gloves. When descending quickly, the rope rubs and burns your palm, you can instinctively release the rope from your hands from pain, which can be fatal.
Now we take all this and go to an impromptu climbing wall.
Do not forget to call a friend with you who will carry out insurance. Haven't forgotten? Well done!
Our climbing wall will be a small wall from which you can go down. In the photo, for example, a retaining wall.
For the first workouts, the lower the better.
Now we put on a harness. Tighten and check all buckles. Ask a friend to check again.
The first step is to fasten the rope. In mountaineering, it is customary to fasten either to one unconditionally reliable point, or to two less reliable ones. These anchor points are called stations.
We will be attached to a living tree. This is a pretty safe anchor point.
We are tied to the tree with the same blessed eight, well, or bowline without forgetting the control knot.
There is another option to buy quickdraw from a 120 cm long sling and using a carabiner to create just such a station.
Using a semi-grasping knot reduces strength by 50 percent, but the "choke" ( semi-grasping knot) allows you to gain a foothold higher.
We'll do it like this.
Well, in general, such braces from the sling are very useful in the household. You have to take a couple.
The station was created. First of all, we secure ourselves to it with a mustache of self-insurance. If you do not know what it is, then you can play it safe with a repic, as I am in the photo.
And since we are talking, I will say a few words about lanyard mustache.
These are segments of a sling or dynamic rope, which are attached to the system at one end and to the insurance point at the other.
There are industrial production and self-linked.
Purchased looks like this.
Self bound so. A figure-eight mustache knot is attached to the system.
The first mustache, as a rule, has a standard length - 55 cm. It mainly serves to attach to surrounding objects, such as the station that we made in the previous step.
A jumar is usually attached to the second mustache. Its length should be such that, hanging on this mustache, you reach the latch of the jumar (how the jumar looks like, where it has a latch and what it is in general, I will tell you a little lower).
At the free ends of the self-insurance mustache, knots are knitted into which carabiners are fastened. I use a semi-grapevine with three turns. If you do not know how to such a node, use the figure eight.
Now let's go back to the beginning of the "cycle". We found support. They created a station on it, snapped a self-insurance. Happened? Well done!
Now, at the end of the rope on which we will descend, we knit a figure eight and snap it into the carabiner, which was hung at the station.
At the other end of the rope, we also knit a knot and drop the bay into the "chasm".
This knot ensures that even if the rope does not reach the bottom, you will simply stop and not fall over the end.
Even if you think that the rope has reached the bottom, you still need to make sure of it. Ask a friend downstairs.
If the rope passes over the edge of the wall and rubs against it, then it is worth putting on it tread. This is a strip of dense material (basin, a piece of a fire hose, etc.) with Velcro. Wraps around the rope and protects against abrasion.
If the protector is not worn, then a couple of times this picture is obtained. Agree, it's not.
We thread the rope into the descender (I hope you didn’t forget it below). Pull the free end up and take out the slack.
Now, if you pull the free end of the rope, then you will not be able to fall.
At this stage, you can click the mustache of the lanyard from the station.
By the way, your insurance will be based on the same principle. An insurer should stand below, and it is desirable that this is not your worst enemy, who is already rubbing his sweaty palms in anticipation of your fall.
The spotter must be ready to pull on the free end of the rope.
He should not be distracted from insurance by pretty climbers or talking on a cell phone. All his attention should be focused on you.
We start the hand with the rope under the ass, while the rope will be additionally controlled on the thigh.
With our backs we go to the edge, slowly giving out the rope by slightly relaxing the palm.
Resting with our feet, we hang out the fifth point so that the legs are at right angles to the wall. The back is straight and parallel to the wall.
We make the first descent slowly, in steps. We rearrange our legs and slowly give out the rope until we touch the ground.
Congratulations, the first descent is completed!
In the future, the descents can be complicated at will.
From the insurer, you can and should go to self-insurance(and also, for maximum security, both of these options can be combined).
Just for this, we learned the grasping knot.
The knot is usually knitted either above the SA or below. What is the difference?
If we knit a grasping knot above the SU, then in case of a breakdown, we hang on it. The descender becomes unloaded.
To continue the descent, we need to loosen the knot and load the descender again. In order to loosen the knot, we need to rise a little. To do this, we need a clamp (I will talk about them later) or tie a stirrup on a rope.
In general, the task is not very trivial.
An easier option is to knit a grasping knot below the SU. In the photo, an autoblock unit is used.
In this case, during a fall, we remain hanging on the knot, while the trigger remains loaded.
We only need to grab the rope between the SU and the knot, thus we will unload the knot, it will be possible to loosen it and continue the descent.
It seems like a good method, but it also has drawbacks. If the reason for the breakdown is in the destruction of the SS, then we will be turned upside down, which is very unpleasant. Although this probability is quite small, it should not be neglected.
Read more about securing a self-insurance below the SU in a very sensible article:
Everything, the descent is mastered. You can not stop there, but continue training, for example, master the elements of assault mountaineering, which basically consists of spectacular descents.
Even if you stop after having mastered only the basics, you have already acquired skills that, in certain circumstances, such as a fire on stairwell, save your life.
All about the descent.
Now it's time to touch climb on a rope, but first I’ll talk a little about clamps.
clamp- a device that moves freely along the rope, but when a load occurs, the device is fixed by clamping the rope, hence the name.
Rope climbing requires two ascenders or one ascender + auto belay device.
The most common clamp is jumar. This is a clip with a handle that is comfortable to hold. The most convenient tool for lifting (hence the term zhumarit, means to climb). It is advisable to have at least one.
Zhumars are left and right, under any hand.
The principle of operation of the jumar is quite simple. It is based on clamping the rope with a spring-loaded cam with spikes.
We put an open jumar on a rope and snap it into place. Up, it slides freely along the rope, and when loaded, it is fixed. A loaded jumar cannot be removed.
For more security, you can click the carabiner like this.
A pedal is fastened to the handle of the jumar. All the same, the strongest muscles in a person are in the legs.
The pedal should be of such length that when standing in it with a fully extended leg, the jumar is at chest level.
Let the jumar be our first clamp. The second clamp can also be a jumar, but already under the left hand.
The rise on two jumars is done as follows.
We get up on the pedal of the left jumar. We push the right jumar up the rope as much as possible, while bending the right leg at the knee. We make a push with the right foot - "we rise to the step." Then we push the left jumar, etc.
With the mustache of self-insurance, it is better to insure both jumars.
Instead of the second jumar, you can (and even need to) take crawl. This is a clamp that is very similar to a jumar with a sawn off handle. It hangs on the chest. In the case of using with a waist ISS, it is necessary to additionally hang a special rope around the neck.
The principle of lifting on a pair of jumar + crawl.
I will show this method in a separate video.
We depend on the crawl. We push the jumar as high as possible, bending the leg with the pedal put on at the knee. Pull up on the pedal. The rope itself passes through the crawl. Then we hover on the crawl and push the jumar further.
At the same time, you can hold on to the jumar with both hands, and pass both legs into the stirrup of the jumar.
Climbing with jumar + front crawl is the fastest and easiest to learn.
There is an option to do without jumar.
For example, using the crawl + pantin scheme.
pantin- this is the same crawl, only attached to the boot. The lifting principle is the same.
But I would advise at least one jumar, but buy it. In addition to lifting on it, you can also insure, although it is not recommended.
The second type of clamps that I highlight are safety clamps.
As you ascend, the belay ascender rides alongside you on the second rope, or above you if there is only one rope.
They ride up freely, and when they fall, they block and prevent you from falling. The most famous representatives: various drops, shants, backups and asaps.
I also want to mention various mini-clamps. They are capable of performing functions similar to large ones, although they are less reliable and convenient. Their undeniable advantage is their small weight and size.
As a result, one or two such clamps can always be kept on the harness. You can read more about them in the review.
In general terms, everything is on the rise.
Now about the unpleasant, namely about breakdowns. And more specifically about the jerk factor.
A newcomer entering any forum in the discussion of any iron sees this term almost immediately.
Its essence is very simple to understand.
"jerk factor" is the ratio of the height of the fall to the length of the rope that stops it.
A rather rough indicator by which it is easy to determine whether this piece of iron will fall apart during a jerk or not.
I strongly recommend avoiding falls with a factor greater than one.
Quite simply: if we have secured something (a quickdraw, a belay device on the second rope, etc.), the belay point should not be below the belt.
That's all. Thank you for your attention!
Methodological material developed as a teaching aid for teaching the technique of rope access at the Training Center "Industrial Mountaineering".
Methodological material developed as a teaching aid for teaching the technique of rope access in Training Center "Industrial mountaineering". Author: Anton Yuriev ( Rescuer's Notes)
Important
- It is necessary to constantly ensure that all carabiners are sleeved and loaded along the main axis;
- The descender placed on the rope must always be locked when the free end of the rope is not held in the hand;
- Keep hair and loose clothing out of the descender and other moving equipment;
- Do not allow the possibility of high dynamic loads (breakdown) on the hand and chest clamps;
- It is necessary to constantly monitor the correct position of the belay device;
- The mustache of the belay device should not be held at hand;
- By attaching the belay device first and removing it last, the employee eliminates the possibility of forgetting about insurance;
Individual equipment
Whiskers are made from dynamic rope (EN 892 single rope). They are tied into the abdominal point of the strapping with eight knots or a conductor. At the ends are barrel knots, figure eight or conductor. Long mustaches should be such that the worker, hanging on them, can reach out to the carabiner with his hand. The length of the short mustache should be such that its carabiner almost reaches the chin.
Devices
The ASAP belay device is attached to the chest point, and the worker's harness is connected with an Absorbica or Asap'sorber. Attached to the ASAP shock absorber is an OK Triact-Lock carabiner.The descender is attached to the ventral harness. The carabiner must be positioned in such a way that during the descent, the latch is on the side of the worker. The axis of the latch must be on the side of the trigger.
A hand clip is attached to a long mustache.
The pedal is attached with a separate carabiner to the carabiner of the manual clamp. The length of the pedal is chosen in such a way that with a fully extended leg, the hand clamp is directly above the chest. 
Installing the rope in the descender (SU)
a) Storage, transportation
b) Blocking
c) Descent
d) Panic trigger position (for ID)
e) Partner insurance
Rope descent
The descent is carried out by etching the rope through the SS. The speed of descent is controlled by the holding force of the free end of the rope. During the descent, do not let go of the hand holding the free end of the rope. To start the descent, move the SU handle to the descent position and gently press it.
The descent must be smooth, without jerks, the maximum speed is 2 m/s.
When descending along the wall, rest against the wall with your legs slightly bent at the knees.
Stop
Slowly release the handle to stop. To free both hands, move the handle to the lock position. Do not let go of the free end of the rope until the device is locked.Relief from hanging on a belay device
Exceeding the permissible speed of descent leads to the operation of the belay device. In this case, the device will be fixed on the rope, and will be loaded with the weight of the worker.Actions when hovering on a belay device during descent
- Remove the weight from the belay device: to do this, install a hand clamp on the working rope and get up on the pedals or climb up the rope on the descender;
- Unlock and lower down the belay device;
- Continue the actions interrupted by hanging on the belay device;
This method is used for climbing short distances. For longer distances, use the clamp lift. 
- Unlock SU if it is locked;
- Get on the pedals, at the same time taking out the slack in the rope through the SS. Your own weight is lifted by the leg, and not by pulling up on the hands. The body is parallel to the rope;
- Transfer weight to SS;
- Repeat steps 2-4 until the goal is reached;
Attaching Clamps to Rope
lifting technique
- Raise the hand ascender on the rope as high as possible while performing a yielding bend with the foot inserted into the pedal. Keep your foot under you;
- Get on the pedals and bring the chest clamp to the manual one. Your own weight is lifted by the leg, and not by pulling up on the hands. The body is parallel to the rope. When lifting, the rope must slip through the chest clamp without the participation of the worker. To do this, the shoulder straps of the harness must be well tightened, the rope must be located between the legs of the worker and not cling to the equipment attached to the harness. The first few meters of the ascent may require you to pull the rope through the chest ascender with your hand;
- Shift your weight to the chest clamp;
- Install a manual clamp with a pedal on the rope;
- Open chest clamp cam;
- Stand on the pedals with your leg fully extended;
- Place the chest ascender on the rope above the SA, transfer the weight to the chest ascender;
- Remove the SU from the rope;
- Install the descender on the rope below the chest ascender, but as close as possible to it, block it;
- Remove the chest ascender from the rope, transfer the weight to the descender;
- Remove the hand clamp from the rope;
- Lower the hand clamp to the chest;
- Slightly stand on the pedals to unload the chest clamp, press its cam with your finger;
- Bending at the knee the leg inserted into the pedal, lower the chest clamp down the rope;
- Remove your finger from the cam of the chest clamp before the mustache attached to the hand clamp is taut, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
- Repeat these actions until the goal is achieved;
Passage of a quickdraw
Climb
- Pull up on the quickdraw and unfasten the first quickdraw carabiner located above the devices. Holding on to the ropes coming out of the guy down, smoothly move horizontally;
- Continue climbing;
Descent
Passing an intermediate fix
Descent
Climb
- Climb up to PZ. Leave 1-2 cm from the hand clamp to the knot;
- Continue climbing;
passing knots
- Rearrange the hand clamp above the knot;
- Rise a little more on the clamps so that the chest clamp is a few centimeters from the knot;
- Set the descender on the working rope below the chest clamp, block;
- Get up on the pedals, release the chest clamp and move it above the knot, transfer the weight to the chest clamp;
- Remove the descender from the working rope;
- Continue climbing;
- Get down to the node. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the descender;
- Change from descender to clamps;
- Lower yourself on the clamps to the knot. There should be a few centimeters left from the knot to the chest clamp;
- Install the descender below the knot, take some slack so that the knot rests on the device, block it;
- Get up on the pedals, disconnect the chest clamp from the rope, smoothly transfer the weight to the descender. The hand clip should be positioned so as not to hang on his mustache;
- Remove the hand clamp;
- Continue descent;
- Go down / go up to the node;
- Create a second point of attachment to the safety rope: tie an Austrian guide knot and fasten a mustache into its loop or install and block the descender;
- Rearrange the belay device through the node;
- Remove the second attachment point created in step 2;
- Continue driving;
Transition from one pair of ropes to another
Important!
During horizontal movement, the worker must be attached to four ropes: two workers and two safety ropes. This way of organizing the belay prevents falling along the trajectory of the pendulum when one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident when colliding with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.
Passing a long karem
Climb
Descent
- Stand on the manual clamp pedals and release the chest clamp, smoothly transfer your weight to the descender. Detach the hand clamp and belay device from the ropes to the FZ.
- Continue descent;
Working on spread ropes
The method of working on spaced ropes allows you to expand the available space. The worker uses two pairs of ropes: two workers holding him in the required position, and twosafety. This way of organizing the belay prevents a fall along the trajectory of the pendulum when one of the working ropes breaks, which could lead to an accident.
collision with surrounding objects or damage to a moving loaded rope.
By extending or selecting the rope through the descenders, the worker can move horizontally and vertically. The use of descenders is similar to their use for
descent and ascent. 
If there are kinks between the descent zone and the anchoring points of the ropes, when the worker moves horizontally, the loaded ropes will move along the kinks, which can
cause them to be damaged. The ropes should be prevented from shifting by means of quickdraws or intermediate anchoring points.
Overcoming the tread
During the ascent
- Climb to the tread
- Remove protector
- Climb above the tread installation site
- Continue driving
During the descent
- Go down to the tread
- Take the rope away from the point of friction
- Remove protector
- Go down below the tread installation site
- Restore the location of the protector on the rope
- Continue driving
Traversing structures using mustaches with shock absorber
The worker moves along the structures by climbing. The insurance is carried out by sequential rearrangement of the mustache containing the shock absorber and attached to point A on the worker's harness.
If it is necessary to free his hands to perform any action, the worker, in addition to the mustache with a shock absorber, joins the structure with a mustache connected to the abdominal
binding point, and hangs on it.
To free your hands, you can also join the design in the girth. The mustache, clasping the structure, is connected to the side points of the strapping or to the abdominal point. On the design of the mustache
located above the points of attachment to the harness, the depth of the possible sliding of the mustache along the structure in the event of a fall is not more than 0.5 meters. The worker leans on his feet. 
Important:
Movement on artificial support points in the horizontal direction
Moving on poles with loops
For movement, three loops are used: one as a support for the leg, the second to hold the weight of the worker, the third for insurance. On surfaces with good friction, the hinges are attached topole with the help of a semi-grasping knot, on slippery ones - with the help of a prussik knot.
The holding loop is connected to the abdominal point of the harness, the safety loop is connected to the chest point.
A. The leg loop is not attached to the harness.
Climb
- Get on the leg loop
- Raise the holding and safety loops up the pole
- Hang on a holding loop
- Raise the leg loop up the post
- Repeat these steps until you reach your goal
Rescue of the victim when hovering on the descender
- It is necessary to give the victim as vertical a position as possible. To do this, the chest point of the harness of the victim is attached with a sliding carabiner to the rope above his descender (or the carabiner to the carabiner of his descender), after which, if necessary, the shoulder straps of the harness are tightened;
- Go down on the clamps to the tension of the short mustache. Disconnect the chest clamp and transfer the weight to the short mustache. Disconnect the hand clamp and your belay device;
- Perform a descent on the trigger device of the victim;
Important!
The use of the victim's ropes for the rescue operation is only permitted if they and their anchoring points have not been damaged. Unacceptable
use equipment that has been subjected to high loads.
Rescue of the victim when hanging on the chest clamp
- Climb up to the victim on the clamps, using his safety rope as your work, and his work as your safety. It is necessary to be at the same level with the victim: if necessary, raise his belay device higher along the rope, you can rearrange the manual clamp above the victim's belay device;
- Attach a long mustache to the abdominal point of the victim's harness, then rearrange the safety device above his chest clamp;
- Pull the chest of the victim towards you and attach the chest point of his strapping with a carabiner to the carabiner of your descender. If the length of one carabiner is not enough to perform this action, use a chain of two or three carabiners or a short anchor loop (no more than 30 cm, you can fold a longer loop several times);
- Disconnect the victim's whisker from his hand clamp. Disconnect the victim's safety device from the rope;
- Attach the pedal to the victim's thoracic harness point, pass it through a carabiner attached to the victim's hand clamp. Adjust the pedal so that its length is maximum;
- Detach the victim's chest clamp. Maximally choose the slack in the trigger device, block it;
- Bending at the knee of the leg inserted into the pedal, transfer the weight to the descender. Disconnect the pedal from the victim, remove the manual clamp from the rope;
- Pass the rope exiting the descender through an additional carabiner to increase friction. carry out the descent;
Important!The program was developed by rope access specialist Anton Yuryev for
The use of the victim's ropes for the rescue operation is only permitted if they and their anchoring points have not been damaged. It is unacceptable to use equipment subjected to high loads.